PITTI, WINTER IN SYDNEY, THE FLORENCE SYNDROME
Even in the middle of summer, my mind is often drawn to men’s winter fashion, mainly due to the amazing images that show up on instagram, twitter and the blogosphere from Pitti Uomo. This is THE men’s clothing festival/show/occasion. Now as the colder months near in the southern hemisphere I look to implement as many as possible that suit my style.
Here are my four favourite new season looks that we in the southern hemisphere need to check out.
There is a strong trend moving away from the traditional suit, but not to a casual look, rather to a mix and match look of different fabric jacket vest and trousers, to keep a formal style but adding some panache.
Here’s a great look with a bold trouser, then understated jacket, waistcoat and tie then with some flair from the pochette and lapel pin.
In this, the feature is the jacket,offset with a classic shirt, tie and trouser combo, but with a great pochette to add some splash.
This sort of look is great for those not bound by traditional conservative attire, but still want to dress either in a suit or quite formal. It is a great way to embrace your inner dandy in a work environment that doesn’t prescribe the wearing of ties. Alternatively, these are great looks for dinner or lunch without being as stuffy as the suit.
DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS AND THREE PIECE OUTFITS
I have included these in the same section as to me the are doing the same thing. With suits and dress attire there is a huge swing back to a more formal look. In conservative environs classic ties and shirts are the norm, but with the rise of dandy-ism men are using the double breasted or three piece option to distinguish their outfits, also adding more formality and power dressing. These looks are great for winter as they are a bit warmer too.
This is just a simple suit lifted by both the interesting waistcoat and pochette, and is indicative of the plain being lifted by the waistcoat. Note the outfit behind is in the same mold.
This double breasted is just fantastic, and worn to perfection with simple white shirt and tie highlighting the feature colour in the check of the suit. Also that coat is fantastic, and is referred to later.
This was one of my favourite looks, the beautiful curved low gorge vest in a mid grey flannel suit, so well accessorized with the strong hat and pocket watch. This look could be worn from the accountancy office right through to the races, just edit the level of accessories.
FLANNEL SUITS AND JACKETS
These are a northern hemisphere staple due to their warmth and they simply seem to encapsulate the winter look. These feel extremely comfortable and add character to any look. Here the texture of the fabric is the hero, and the classic English wardrobe refers to the plain navy or grey flannel suit as THE must have.
The classic Prince of Wales check, just with the napped finish of flannel makes and amazing suit or even just a jacket, and lifts the character of the suit. Again note the 3 piece.
A GREAT COAT
This is a wardrobe must, even in the milder climates such as Sydney. A beautiful jacket just adds a great touch to that winter outfit, even just worn draped over the shoulders as in many of these images. Get one that complements all of your suits if you only wear it a few times a year to make sure you get maximum wear from it, although having several is a great luxury and you can then be a bit bolder.
Here is one a touch (okay, a lot) bolder in burgundy which is actually suprisingly versatile, as anyone with oxblood shoes can attest. This becomes a large feature of the outfit, to the extent this man in a suit has coordinated his tie and socks to match.
You don’t have to be as bold as these options, a beautiful camel (as pictured with the double breasted suit above), grey, charcoal or navy coat is fantastic as well, just make sure it is well cut. It should have slightly broader shoulders than your suit, but still be a tailored shape, not a sack.
HOW TO APPLY TO THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE CLIMATE
The climate in the southern hemisphere is obviously not as severe as that in the north, so to achieve your own versions of these looks a couple of adjustments can be made. To start with, get a few contrasting waistcoats to wear under existing suits/jackets in a basic plain coloured lightweight fabric, you can buy these separately sometimes but usually only in classic colours so visit a tailor to have some bolder ones, and things like this are a great way to test a tailor without spending a fortune.
As to the flannel textured fabrics these days many mills provide lighter weight flannels in 8-10oz weights (240-300gm) which are light enough to wear year round in warmer climes, as opposed to the 14-15oz (400-450gm) weights of yesteryear. Brands like Ariston and Dormeuil provide great fabrics in this style and weight, my favourite for jackets is the Giacche Ariston bunch and Dormeuil Amadeus jackets.
To get that fantastic tweed check look you simply can’t beat Aimbry by Huddersfield cloth, in a perfect perennial weight the patterns are perfect for the separates look, or even for a bold suit
As for off the rack options, in Australia try MJ Bale for basic budget options or Hugo Boss AND Brooks Brothers for some more premium options. The best options though are at Harrolds from great brands like Brioni, Pal Zieri and Caruso, which are finally making a real appearance on our shores!!
Good luck adding these looks to your wardrobe, check some more options out at The Man in a Suit pinterest site and feel free to suggest more!